The joys of tomatoes and wines

This year we had quite a summer. The prolonged heat and drought made growing things quite a challenge but somehow we coped, largely thanks to having our own wells plus a spring that continued to trickle even at the height of the inferno.

The big success stories on the grow-your-own front have been tomatoes, cucumbers, and squashes, all of which have delivered flavour beyond compare. Cucumbers have been deliciously scented; as soon as they are cut you get a wonderful aroma with a touch of rose petals to it. Tomatoes have been almost unsettlingly intense in their tomato-ness, so to speak. And the combination of heat and vigilant watering has given us squashes that are sweet, nutty, and a lot bigger than usual.

Having given of their all last year, the apples decided to have a rest and I think there have been just two on our big rambling Bramley, one of which joined some blackberries from this year’s bumper crop. Eating them is my revenge on the brambles that have to be constantly kept in check with noisy and, frankly, dangerous machinery. Pears have cropped shyly but the few Doyenné du Comice that we’ve had were delicious and further evidence that this is the best of them all. Conference pears are like turnips by comparison. There will be no 2026 cider vintage, but we still have lots of the 2025.

Tomatoes

Of all the edibles that you can grow, I firmly believe that the one category that really delivers is tomatoes. Supermarket tomatoes vary, of course, but none of them come close to what you can pick in your greenhouse, polytunnel, conservatory or – if you’re lucky – a very sunny but sheltered spot outside. Commercial varieties are bred for shelf-life and must have fairly tough skins for packing and transporting. Not so for the ones you can grow yourself.

Of all the edibles that you can grow, I firmly believe that the one category that really delivers is tomatoes

This year’s champions were Black Cherry, Saint-Pierre, and a yellow/orange one, grown from saved seeds over more than 10 years, that I can’t quite put a name on.

I discovered Black Cherry in the garden shop at Killruddery in Co Wicklow where they had sturdy plants for sale back in April. Such is the fabulous flavour of this small, oddly coloured (green/brown/red) tomato that it leaves others standing. (You can get seeds from Suttons and other suppliers). Saint-Pierre is at the other end of the scale, a big, globe-shaped beefsteak type with dense flesh, few seeds, and excellent flavour. I like to slice it thinly, like a carpaccio, and drizzle on a vinaigrette into which I have mixed lots of very finely chopped shallots.

My mystery tomato, which I acquired by taking part in the Totally Terrific Tomato Fest a few years ago, I originally had down as Yellow Queen. But it actually turns orange when fully ripe, although it doesn’t seem to be an old American variety called Orange Queen. As a result, I don’t know what to call it but it tastes, well, terrific. And if you would like seed, just send me what we used to call an SAE c/o the Medical Independent and I’ll share the joy.

Wines

I also want to share some other – rather different – taste experiences in the form of recent wine discoveries.

While I believe that the greatest white wines on the planet are made from Chardonnay in the, sadly, more expensive parts of Burgundy, I’m equally convinced that Riesling is snapping at its heels. And I’ve fallen in love with Eintal Riesling Trocken from Aldi at €11.99. It may be a humble QbA from the Rheinhessen, but it’s seductively perfumed, delicate, dry, and just 12 per cent ABV, which is unusual these days. With confit duck legs, it was a perfect complement.

Sophie Schaal Organic Riesling 2025 from Alsace at €21.99 in O’Brien’s, is brilliantly pure with a mineral tang and a bone-dry finish combined with a subtle sense of power. I’m happy to have this on its own, but it would sing with rillettes.

With my tomatoes, usually with West Cork burrata, basil, and good olive oil, I’ve found the most dependable (and otherwise versatile) wine to be Specially Selected Gavi from Aldi at a tenner: Crisp, dry, elegant, straightforward, a proper expression of the Cortese grape.

And speaking of grapes, there are now 15 permitted grape varieties in red Côtes du Rhône. While the lead vocals, so to speak, are still Grenache, Syrah, and Mourvèdre, there can also be the likes of Muscardin, Counoise, Picpoul Noir, and nine others.

You can have the whole shebang in Dauvergne-Ranvier 15 Cépages 2023 from molloys.ie for €13.99. It’s rich, dark, with a lot going on. Molloy’s have some well-priced mature Bordeaux and some recently added Burgundies.

In Bordeaux, here are two that have impressed me of late. Recently arrived at Aldi is Les Trois Manoirs Médoc 2022, a Cru Bourgeois for €11.99, pure blackcurrants on the nose, a touch of smoky oak, with all the fleshiness of the vintage but with round tannins. Château de Malleret 2019 was a lovely discovery at €35 from Whelehan’s (whelehanswines.ie), a Cru Bourgeois Exceptionnel, and just ready to drink with plenty more years in it. Dense, classic claret with great length.

I was lucky enough to taste the 2024 vintage ports from Taylor’s and Croft and while it’s a whopper of a vintage it has a freshness that the 2023s lack.

However, other tasters suggested that the wines should “be revisited in the 2060s” which rules me out. However, I’ll be ordering some for my grandson in the hope that he will – like his parents – enjoy wine and that by the time the port is ready to drink, alcohol won’t have been outlawed.